Form conforming garment



July 27, 1937. R. MC'JMROE 2,088,245

FORM CONFORMING GARMENT Filed Sept. 17,- 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet l I nvenior Attorneys July 27, 1937. M NROE 2,088,245

FORM CONFORMING GARMENT Filed Sept. 17; 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Inventor JZuWz 117072 roe,

By fizwdoi izm Attorneys Patented July 27, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 3 Claims.

Thisinvention relates to garments and relies on novel and new patterns laid and out in such amanner that the bias of the material andthe shape of each piece forms, when sewn together, a slip which conforms to (not confines) the figure over which it is worn.

During the past year or two, revolutionary changes have been made in confining undergarments, namely brassires, girdles and foundation garments, the latter embodying both brassire and girdle in one piece. They have been improved to such an extent that the woman with less than average good figure may, by wearing a well fitting foundation garment, obtain a figure which appears better than average.

' During. the specialized change in confining undergarments, very little if any improvement has been made inthe garment worn directly over said confining garment, generally known as the slip.

True, bias slips have been made, but they have been altogether unsatisfactory in that they have depended almost entirely upon the elasticity for give of the material for their fitting properties, and that is not sufi icient. The. limit of the 5 elasticity of the average bias slip has been reached upon donning the garment, and in the subsequent movements of walking, sitting, bending, exercising, etc., extra stress is added to an already stretched material and the result is twisting,

3 binding, riding-up, and general discomfort. In the final analysis, a confining undergarment is only so good as the garment immediately covering it. An ill-fitting drawn slip completely distorts the effect of a well-fitted confining garment.

With the above in mind, the present invention provides for a form conforming garment which, by the manner in which it is cut with regard to the straight and bias of the material used, follows faithfully the lines and shape of a form confining undergarment, or, of course, the figure itself.

, This garment is not confining in principle. It is conforming in principle.

The objects of the invention are obtained by the construction illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein:

Figure 1 is a plan view of theseparate pieces composing the front portion of the garment, and illustrating the design or pattern thereof, and

Fig. 2 is a similar view of the separate pieces 0 composing the back portion of the dress.

, Fig. 3 is a front view of the completed dress illustrating its appearance in actual use, and

Fig. 4 is a back View thereof. a In accordance with the invention, the garment is composed in its entirety of five pieces indicated toward the bottom of the skirt.

at l., 2, 3, 4 and 5 respectively, and adjustable shoulder straps 6.

The breast conforming piece or top sectional part I of the front of the garment is cut'on the bias, thus allowing for the maximum give of the material which conforms to the outward downward curve of the bust. This also gives a certain amount as well to the bust measurements of the slip if needed. There are no darts and there is no center seam to limit the elasticity of the material at a given point. A strip 2 also cut on the true bias is attached to'piece I in the relative position shown in the drawings. By its peculiar out, when sewn in conjunction with piece I, the bias center completes the form conforming idea over the bust and at the same time presents a segment of material I at each outer edge which falls on the straight of the material at either side, to which segment the weight of the large section of the skirt part is hung. This eliminates the tendency to sag at the sides. Strip 2 is also without seam or dart which limits the elasticity of the material at a given point. 3 is adjoined, as illustrated, to piece 2. It is likewise cut on the true bias and fit'ted in at the waist line and with not more than ordinary flare The curvature of the top line of the skirt front 3 is such that the center top'8 of the latter fits well up and snugly under the bust, forming in conjunction with strip 2, an unbroken perfect fitting section of the garment which, in turn, joins piece-I to continue an unbroken contour over the bust.

separate pieces 4 and 5 respectively. By dividing the back of the garment into two sections, it is possible to actually fit the garment to the curvatures of the human figure. The top piece 4 of the back of thegarment is cut on the true bias and is well fitted in at the normal waist line, a feature impossible to accomplish with the back of the garment cut in one single piece. Piece 4, as cut,accommodates the variance of bust measures in each established size. Particular attention is directed to the fact that the edge of the top of both front and back sections of the garment lie practically along the straight of the material. This eliminates the possibility of the garment becoming out of shape during making, wearing or laundering. Piece 5, forming the back of the skirt, is cut on the true bias and embodies two distinctive features. Two darts emanating from each of the side seams approximately four and six inches below the normal waist line, assure The skirt front piece fullness over the hips. This fullness is incorporated into the garment during construction so that when the garment is put on, the material actually conforms to the shape of the body without stress having been applied to the material at any given point. Thus, in walking, bending, sitting, exercising, etc., the garment can readily accommodate itself to the required motion or shape, because the reserve elasticity of the bias has not already been used in the process of fitting. The top edge of piece 5 is laid out along a concave line H which, when sewn in conjunction with a similar concave line [2 of piece 4, fits well in at the waist line, thus eliminating all surplus material and wrinkles which are bound to occur at the waist line in a garment with the back section cut in one piece. By having the seam l3, shown in Fig. 4, at the waist line of the back section join the front section at a point well below the seam l4, shown in Fig. 3, that joins pieces 2 and 3 together, sufficient elasticity is assured so that the garment may be put on and taken off with ease.

Bias cut garments generally have not cut to 'the best advantages and have had to be pieced at objectionable places. This garment, by having had the two large sections 3 and 5 shortened in the process of unique design can be cut to particularly good advantage for commercial use. The smaller pieces utilize the remaining material with the minimum amount of waste. It is intended that the top edge of the garment should be bound with bias self material, lace trimmed or hemmed in such a way to preserve the original shape of the garment. As mentioned previously,

the lines of the top edge of the garment fall practically along the straight of the material, eliminating the possibility of the garment becoming out of shape during construction, wearing or laundering. The shoulder straps 6 are attached to the garment in the manner shown and may be made of self material or any recognized material in general use, and should embody the idea of adjustment to either high, low or average busted figures. The back, of course, may be varied, lowering it to the waist line if necessary to permit wearing under evening dresses. All seams should be stitched and the raw seams Stitched fiat to the material from the right side.

From the foregoing, it will be apparent that the invention provides a garment which is completely form conforming due entirely tothe new and unique method of cutting each separate piece of material. These pieces, when subsequently joined together; form a garment entirely free from binding, twisting, riding-up or any other undesirable feature.

It is comfortable to wear, economical to cut, and assures the wearer maximum fit and comfort. The invention applies not only to slips but to any outer .or undergarment where conformation is to be desired. I

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is:-

1. A form conforming garment composed of bias out front and back portions respectively with a finished top edge falling practically along the straight of the material, the said back portion comprising a top section and a skirt back section joined together along similarly concave lines at the normal waist line of the garment.

2. A form conforming garment comprising a sectional front portion and a sectional back portion, the front portion being composed of a bias cut piece conforming to the outward downward curve of the bust, a bias out front skirt piece fitted in at the waist lineand having a top center curvature to fit well up and snugly under the'bust, and a bias cut strip joining the said top bust piece and the said skirt front piece to form an unbroken perfect fitting section in conjunction with the skirt front piece and providing in conjunction with the top piece a continuous unbroken contour over the bust, said strip having segments falling on the straight of the material at either side to which the weight of the skirt front piece is hung and the sectional back portion comprising a bias cut top piece well fitted in at the normal waist line and a bias cut skirt back piece, the said top and skirt pieces of the back portion being united at a point Well below the connection between the said strip and skirt piece of the front portion of the garment.

3. A form conforming multi-piece garment comprising a front section and a back section formed together along their corresponding side edges, said front section being composed of a bust conforming top piece and a skirt front piece fitted in at the waist line and of a length and top curvature to fit well up and snugly under the bust, and a connecting piece between and sewn to said top and skirt pieces along said adjacent horizontal edges thereof, and said back section of the garment being composed of a top piece and a skirt back piece having adjacent edges out along similar concaved lines and sewn together to provide a seam at the normal waist line of the garment, which seam joins the front section at a point well below the seam that joins together the said connecting piece and skirt piece of the front section, said skirt back piece having a pair of relatively spaced darts emanating from the side seams at predetermined distances below the normal waist line of the garment to assure fullness over the hips, all of said pieces being bias cut and the top edges of both front and back sections being disposed substantially along the straight of the material.

' RUTH MONROE. 

